10 things you probably didn't know about Hermès scarves
An iconic and timeless accessory, the Hermès scarf has spanned eras without ever going out of style. Today, it is an essential accessory in a woman's wardrobe, just like vintage jewelry which adds a touch of elegance and history to every outfit. Behind its iconic prints and precious silk lie workshop secrets, historical anecdotes, and above all, exceptional craftsmanship.
If you think you already know everything about this legendary square, which increases in value every year, here are 10 things you (perhaps) still don't know about Hermès scarves...
1. Each Hermès scarf takes up to 2 years to create
The creation of an Hermès scarf is a very long and rigorous process. It takes an average of 18 to 24 months from the first sketch to the commercialization of the final model. This process includes many steps, from the universe and theme of the collection, to the selection of the motif, the design, the engraving of the screens for silkscreen printing, color trials, and numerous quality tests. Nothing is ever left to chance.
2. One scarf, up to 46 silkscreen frames
Undoubtedly the most impressive detail of its manufacture: each color of an Hermès scarf is applied separately, by hand, using silkscreen printing. A single scarf can thus require up to 46 different frames, one for each shade. This artisanal process guarantees a diversity of color at the heart of each motif and a unique intensity. Artisans let each color dry before applying the next. This process requires patience and precision.
3. Hermès collaborates with artists... sometimes anonymous
While some artists' names have become famous through their collaboration with Hermès, such as Hugo Grygkar, Kermit Oliver, or Loïc Dubigeon, other designers remain completely unknown to the general public. The House has always cultivated a certain discretion, letting the work take precedence over the signature. Some designs like Coup de Fouet, Cliquetis, or Grand Manège were disseminated for a long time without official mention of the designer. It was only from the 1980s-1990s that the artist's signature became systematically integrated into the design, often discreetly.
4. The very first scarf was created in 1937
Entitled "Jeu des Omnibus et Dames Blanches," this is THE first Hermès scarf that was published in 1937. It was designed and imagined by Hugo Grygkar, inspired by a 19th-century Parisian board game. This foundational motif was already emblematic of Hermès' approach: drawing from art, history, and cultures to create timeless objects.
5. Each edge is hand-rolled... in a specific direction
The famous Hermès rolled hem is not a simple hem, let alone machine-sewn. It is meticulous work done by hand by specialized seamstresses called "rouleuses". It is a true point of identification and differentiation. The rolled hem is always made towards the front of the scarf (and not the back), which is one of the criteria for authenticating a true Hermès square. This also gives that subtle volume to the edge of the fabric.
6. The emblematic 90 format does not actually measure 90 x 90 cm
Contrary to what its name suggests, the famous "90 square" almost never measures 90 x 90 cm. Its dimensions often vary between 88 and 89.5 cm, precisely due to the hand-rolled hem and the artisanal manufacturing process. This is what makes each scarf slightly unique.
The 90 silk square remains the most famous format, but Hermès offers its scarves in a wide variety of sizes: 70 square, 140 square, twilly, maxi-twilly, 45 gavroche, triangle, bandeau, etc.
7. Some antique Hermès scarves are prized for their rarity
Hermès does not communicate the exact quantity of scarves produced per model (except for certain limited or special edition models), but some collectors and experts have established rarity and interest rating systems for the scarves. Models such as "Entente Cordiale – Château d'Eu 1843" or "Le Temps du Voyage" often achieve a rarity score of 3 to 4 out of 4, especially when they were issued for diplomatic occasions or in collaboration with museums and foundations. These antique Hermès scarves are thus emblematic pieces, often sought after by collectors. The oldest ones, often collector's items, are only available secondhand as they are no longer manufactured by the house and were produced in very limited numbers. Discover our selection of vintage Hermès scarves carefully authenticated right here
8. Hermès keeps its archives... and sometimes reissues its cult models
Hermès' graphic heritage is carefully preserved in its archives. Today, it is a great inexhaustible source of inspiration for the House, which regularly dips into it to reissue certain scarves. They can sometimes be reproduced identically, sometimes revisited in new color palettes. These reissues often bear the mention "reissue" or "variation," and are highly prized by enthusiasts. Some variations are also sought after by collectors because they were produced in small quantities in the 70s to 90s and are therefore only available secondhand.
9. The only American artist to have collaborated with Hermès is Kermit Oliver
It is a collaboration as singular as it is unique that an Hermès creation with Kermit Oliver, who was a self-taught painter. He is the only American artist to have collaborated with Hermès, signing several scarves that blend Western art and Native American legends. His work is highly admired and sought after by many collectors, driving up prices in the secondhand market. For example, his "Faune et Flore du Texas" scarf is now a highly coveted model.
10. Hermès scarves are also works of diplomacy
Hermès has often been asked to create scarves with diplomatic or cultural significance. Some pieces have been given to heads of state or designed to celebrate official events. This is notably the case for the Entente Cordiale – Château d'Eu 1843 model, which commemorates Queen Victoria's visit to France. These limited edition scarves, produced in small quantities, are difficult to find in stores and, for the oldest ones, are only available on the secondhand market.
How to recognize a genuine Hermès scarf? The importance of documentation
Through these ten anecdotes, we better understand why the Hermès scarf is much more than a simple accessory: it is a symbol of style and culture, as precious to wear as it is to collect.
The secondhand and vintage market is currently experiencing growing success. It features many collector's models that are no longer produced by the House. Faced with numerous counterfeits, documentation is essential. Sellers and collectors rely on archival catalogs and specialized guides to verify the authenticity of an Hermès square. Several elements are particularly indispensable for authenticating an Hermès scarf: presence of the signature, details of the rolled hem, color palette, year of creation, special mentions (reissue, homage, collaboration, etc.).
At La Fille des Cordeliers, we use these types of sources to guarantee the authenticity of each scarf offered for sale.