Hermès scarf designers: the artists behind the most iconic "carrés"

When one mentions Hermès scarves, it's often the motifs, colors, or certain iconic designs that immediately come to mind. However, behind every scarf is primarily an artist, with their own universe, sensibility, and very particular way of immersing us in their world.

Since the beginnings of the Hermès carré in 1937, the house of Hermès has collaborated with artists, illustrators, and designers from very different backgrounds. Some have profoundly marked the history of Hermès scarves, to the point that their style is now recognizable at first glance.

For many collectors, the interest in a carré is not only based on the design itself, but also on the signature of its creator. Some scarves are now highly sought after and unique in the vintage and second-hand market, solely for their signature.

Why do designers occupy a central place in the Hermès universe?

At Hermès, the scarf is not conceived as a simple fashion accessory. Each scarf is primarily based on an original design, conceived as a true artistic composition.

This importance given to design partly explains why Hermès scarves span decades without losing their appeal. Each designer brings their line, their references, their favorite themes, and a very personal way of constructing the image.

Over time, some collections even develop a specific approach: collecting scarves by designer rather than by theme or color.

The first great designers of Hermès scarves

Several artists have played an essential role in building the visual identity of Hermès scarves.

Hugo Grygkar: one of the pioneers of the Hermès carré

Considered one of the first great designers of the house, Hugo Grygkar largely contributed to the development of the Hermès carré from the 1930s and 1940s.

His style is distinguished by extremely detailed compositions, often inspired by the equestrian, military, or decorative world. He is notably associated with the very first Hermès carré sold in 1937: Jeu des Omnibus et Dames Blanches .

Even today, his creations hold a major place in the history of vintage Hermès scarves. He is credited with creating over a hundred Hermès scarves, including some iconic and timeless designs still sought after today, such as Brides de Gala and Ex-libris. His creations continue to inspire the House of Hermès, which does not hesitate to reinterpret or re-edit some of his designs.

Philippe Ledoux: the equestrian universe taken to its highest level

It is impossible to discuss Hermès scarf designers without mentioning Philippe Ledoux. For nearly 40 years, he was the designer and artist for the house of Hermès.

He joined Hermès in the late 1940s and quickly became one of the house's most emblematic artists. His universe is immediately recognizable: historical precision, richness of detail, and a fascination for the equestrian world.

Among his most famous designs are:

• Napoleon (1963)

• Promenade de Longchamps (1965)

• Attelage en Arbalète (1972), which was, for example, updated and reissued in 2025!

His creations are particularly sought after today by enthusiasts of vintage Hermès scarves. We can highlight the family history that has continued over time, as his nephew Vladimir Rybaltchenko succeeded him, and later his great-grand-nephew Dimitri Rybaltchenko.

Artists who made their mark in the 80s and 90s

The 1980s and 1990s showcase much more varied, sometimes more narrative, symbolic, or colorful universes.

Annie Faivre: an instantly recognizable style

Annie Faivre's work is probably one of the most identifiable in the Hermès universe.

Recognized for her distinctive universe, her compositions are often extremely rich, almost theatrical, blending symbols, historical references, abundant details, and mythological influences. Annie Faivre has left her mark on the history of Hermès scarves with compositions that subtly combine the traditional savoir-faire of the house with a freer approach, inspired by her travels, nature, and various world cultures.

Her ability to reinterpret the heritage of the House of Hermès while bringing a more contemporary dimension is always highlighted. Many designs incorporate emblematic references from the equestrian world, such as bridles, stirrups, or horses, integrating them into more artistic and narrative compositions. This balance between tradition and creativity has largely contributed to making her scarves particularly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts of vintage Hermès scarves.

Designs like Le Tarot or La Danse du Cheval Marwari perfectly illustrate her highly narrative approach to the Hermès carré.

Enthusiasts also often recognize her creations thanks to a detail that has become emblematic: the discreet presence of a small monkey hidden in several of her drawings.

Today, some clients directly seek out her creations without even focusing on the model itself.

Loïc Dubigeon: poetry and movement

Loïc Dubigeon, on the other hand, brought a much lighter and more poetic approach.

His designs often play on movement, curves, and a certain softness in composition. His famous design La Ronde des Heures , released in 1986, remains particularly appreciated today. As do other sought-after designs: Folies du Ciel, Fantaisies indiennes…

His universe contrasts with more historical or highly structured compositions, which makes him immediately identifiable.

Zoé Pauwels: powerful and colorful compositions

Zoé Pauwels' creations are distinguished by their visual intensity and chromatic richness. She has signed over 20 iconic scarves for the House of Hermès.

Her scarves often feature dense compositions, strong contrasts, and true graphic power.

Among her emblematic designs are Pierres d'Orient et d'Occident (1988). A scarf that has become particularly appreciated by collectors who favor the most expressive scarves.

As an anecdote, since 2000, La Poste has called upon major French fashion houses to create its annual Valentine's Day stamp. Chanel, Lanvin, Givenchy, Lacroix, and of course Hermès have participated in this exercise. Thus, one of her designs appeared on the 2013 Valentine's Day stamp.

Very different artistic universes

What makes Hermès scarves particularly fascinating is the diversity of the universes represented. Some designers have developed extremely detailed equestrian themes, while others explore: animals, travel, mythology, decorative arts, or even much more graphic and contemporary approaches.

This diversity now allows each collector to develop a very personal approach to the Hermès carré.

Why certain designers are particularly sought after today

Over time, certain artists become more sought after than others.

Several elements explain this interest: designs that are rarely reissued, an immediately identifiable style, strong artistic coherence. Today, experienced collectors often look at the designer's name even before the model or color. Certain signatures almost become a guarantee of style.

Our perspective on Hermès scarf designers

In our sourcing work, some vintage scarves immediately catch our eye.

We are particularly drawn to designers whose universe remains identifiable at first glance, with a true aesthetic coherence. Certain signatures possess this ability to create scarves that stand the test of time without losing their visual impact.

But we also enjoy seeking out designers who are sometimes a little less known, whose creations offer a different approach to the Hermès carré.

Collecting Hermès scarves in a different way

Taking an interest in the designers often allows one to approach Hermès scarves from a more artistic angle.

Beyond a simple accessory, the scarf then becomes a textile work, linked to a truly precise graphic universe and the sensibility of a creator.

Over time, many enthusiasts have thus developed an affection for certain artists, to the point of truly recognizing their style almost instantly.

And this is also what makes the world of Hermès scarves so rich: behind every scarf lies primarily an artistic vision.